The Moulting Period.
A few years ago, before the Corona era, I visited a pigeon association to examine the pigeons of the members. In a conversation beforehand, the chairman and a passer-by told him that he fed the remains that were left over from the youngsters and the racing pigeons to his breeders.
I was surprised this still happened.
Young pigeons in the dish should be pampered so that they lack nothing and no subscription to crooked breastbones and other ailments can arise. There it does not fit to give the leftovers that other pigeons leave as food to the parents of the young.
I see something similar more often during the moult. The flights are done so some enthusiasts think it can all be a little less and cheaper.
However, what these fanciers often forget, is that during the moulting period the foundation for the prices of the coming year is laid. An excellent plumage will show its return during the flights. A plumage that is not optimal will inhibit the pigeons in their suppleness. Now that the pigeon sport has become a top sport, it is such little things that can make just that little bit of difference.
There are many roads that lead to Rome when it comes to caring for the pigeons during the moult. The starting points should be that sufficient sulphur-containing amino acids are provided. But not only that.
The liver works at high voltage during the moult. So much new building material has to be produced for the new springs to be optimal. A lot of waste is also produced. These waste products must therefore be removed by the liver and kidneys. Optimization of these organs for the moult is therefore not an unnecessary luxury.
House, garden and kitchen diseases such as Trichomoniasis, coccidiosis and worms (and of course also respiratory problems and paratyphoid) should not be able to blow hub during the moult.
Due to the weakening during the moult due to the effort that the body has to make, an outbreak of latent paratyphoid is sometimes lurking. Autumn is the time of year when we see the most paratyphoid. This is due to the moulting period, but also because the inhibiting effect of the various disinfectants that are given during the racing season then disappears.
As mentioned, there are several roads that lead to Rome. There are various (good) products on the market to support the pigeons during the moult.
In your own loft.
In my own loft I give the pigeons a cure of 10 to 14 days with Bony Usneano Plus before the moult. Both the trichomonads and the coccidia dislike this product. Their numbers are therefore rapidly declining drastically in a natural way without medication.
The pigeons are then given Bony Basis-T. I must confess that due to lack of time I am not a tea maker with mule seed, although that is a very good method to support liver and kidneys. Give this also 10 days.
Then the Bony Bonichol with Bony Moulting Vitamin.
Throughout the year, our pigeons receive Bony Basis Kern, Bony Bio-BMT, Bony Nucleovit and Bony Mineral Mix Base every day at least three days a week.
Something really crazy has to happen with that to not get the pigeons through the moult optimally and to provide them with beautiful plumage.
I write here what we do ourselves because many people ask me about this. But as mentioned, there are plenty of good resources on the market. What I only care about here is to ensure that the pigeons are not left to their own devices and are instructed to get through the moult optimally with substandard food that is left over from other pigeons.
Many enthusiasts are still addicted to a paratyphoid cure after the moult. Realize that by no means all remedies work well against paratyphoid.
Instead of going forward, you can farm backwards by curing.
We therefore recommend the Bony PreviSal with considerable success for one month. A natural remedy that the normal gut bacteria are in love with and that the paratyphoid bacteria despise. They therefore keep very quiet when given and seek shelter elsewhere.